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While I was working the booth at the PMA tradeshow last year, an attendee approached me with a question I’ve been asked a hundred times before. “Are these water-based inks or pigment inks?” I gave my usual response,“Well, both—actually,” then launched into an explanation about ink formulation theory, the history of inkjet printing, and the correct application for ink types. He proceeded to tell me I was wrong because someone at a printer manufacturer’s booth had just told him the opposite. He finished with a curt “thank you,” and marched off down the aisle.
It occurred to me that there has been
too much misinformation doled out to
the unsuspecting inkjet user. With the
industry in a state of flux over the transition
from traditional to digital photography,
these half-truths have not helped
with the acceptance of new technologies.
This article is my attempt to put the
record straight.
An inkjet ink formulation can be
explained fairly simply (Figure 1). It consists
of a carrier fluid that keeps the ink in
a liquid state and acts as a “carrier” for
the colorant. This fluid evaporates as the
ink dries, leaving the colorant in or on the
media surface. The carrier fluid used in
most popular desktop and wide-format
“photo” printers is water; the colorant is
either dye or pigment, or a combination
of both. A co-solvent, usually glycol or
glycerin, is often used to control the
ink’s drying time, as well as its viscosity
during manufacturing. Small amounts
of other additives are also present in most
inks. These additives help control things
like dot gain, drop formation, print head corrosion, pH level, fade resistance and
color brilliance. However, in simple
terms, we can think of ink as being a carrier
fluid and a colorant.
The difference between a dye and a
pigment is simple to explain. A dye is a
colorant that is fully dissolved into the
carrier fluid, and the resultant ink is a true
solution (Figure 2a). Once dissolved into
the carrier fluid, a well-made dye should
never separate or settle out. One dye ink
analogy is that it’s like diluting a fruit
juice with water. Once stirred, it never
separates again - no matter how long you
leave it. A pigment is a very fine powder
of solid colorant particles suspended or
dispersed throughout the carrier fluid
(Figure 2b). A crude analogy for a pigment
ink is that it resembles sandy-colored
water in a river or at sea. If you look
closely, you can see the particles of sand
dispersed throughout the water. The
secret in making a good pigment ink is to
keep the pigment suspended in the carrier
fluid for a long period of time, particularly
at the low viscosities required for
inkjet printers. Pigments have a natural
tendency to settle out much like the sand
in the sandy water analogy.
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An interesting story told to me recently is
from a respected photographer who, on
receipt of his new wide-format photo
printer, decided to conduct a test. He
installed the pigment ink cartridges that
came with the machine and printed a standard
color chart test print. Then, he
removed the cartridges and stored them
(along with the test print). He installed
another set of OEM (original equipment
manufacturer) pigment ink cartridges and
went about printing his images. A year
later, he re-installed the original set of cartridges,
and printed the same color chart
test print using the same media, print file
and printer settings. Comparing the colors
of the new and original print with a densitometer,
he found the new print’s color was
50% lower than the original. He figured
this was from the pigment settling out of
the ink during storage. To prove his theory,he removed the cartridges from the
machine and gave them a vigorous shaking.
He re-installed the cartridges, and
made a new test print. He discovered the
color had returned to 90% of its original
level. An interesting example of how pigments
can drop out of ink over time, particularly
when you consider this ink was from
a major printer manufacturer. Fortunately,
recent advances in pigment preparation
technology and dispersal techniques now
give water-based inks at least an 18-month
shelf life without significant settling.
There’s a rule that says “when any inkjet
ink dries by evaporation, the dried ink
must be able to be re-dissolved by the liquid
form of the same ink.” Sounds pretty
simple, right? This concept is vital for an
inkjet printer to function reliably. Let me
explain. Most photo-quality inkjet devices
use print heads with hundreds of very
small jets that eject the ink onto the
media. Liquid ink is always present at
the jets’ opening, and if you use an ink
that dries by evaporation, there’s a good
chance the ink will dry up and clog these
openings. The challenge is to manufacture
a printer that doesn’t clog during the
printing process, but nonetheless has
fast-drying output.
If we take a closer look at a single jet on a print head with dried ink clogging it (Figure 3), we see that the easiest way to remove the clog is have the liquid ink redissolve the dried ink. Another way of doing this would be a separate washing system that bathes the head in an “ink dissolving” solution. However, this adds considerably to the printer’s complexity and price. It’s much simpler to stick to the concept above, and depend on the ink to “unclog” itself.
One common misconception is that
when a jet (or jets) clog on an inkjet
printer (evidenced by lines or banding in
the print), it’s caused by an impurity or “lump” in the ink. In 99.9% of the cases, the clogged jet is caused by dried ink or an air bubble in the ink. Air in the channel
behind the jet on a print head is a sure
way of stopping the jet from firing correctly,
since the air acts as a shock
absorber to the firing action. |
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This is why
you often have to perform several cleaning
operations on a printer when you
change a cartridge—particularly on
Epson and Canon permanent print head
models. The simple act of removing a cartridge
and inserting a new one allows air
to get into the print head; the cleaning
cycles remove it.
Another common misconception is that
pigment inks clog jets more than dyebased
ones. Because pigment inks contain
solid particles, some think these little
particles can somehow “gang up,” forming
a blockage of the jet. This can happen
if a pigment ink is poorly made or formulated.
However, when you consider that
an average pigment particle size is less
than 0.1 micron, and today’s common jet
sizes are 20–25 micron, it would take several
hundred particles to block a jet. Some
major printer manufacturers claim their inks contain smaller particle size
pigments than those of third-party ink
suppliers, or that the lower-priced nonoriginal
ink brands contain cheaper, and
“lumpier” pigments. To me, the best
water-based pigment inks are the ones
that contain pigments that are ground
into the smallest possible size. If ground
any smaller, the pigment’s fundamental
molecular structure would be broken
down, rendering it useless. Sophisticated
particle analysis tests on our inks (and
OEM equivalents) demonstrate that particle
sizes are, unsurprisingly, similar.
One explanation may derive from the
way some third-party suppliers recommend
their pigment inks for use on
printer models designed to run only dyebased
inks. One difference between the
two ink types is that it’s more difficult to
re-dissolve a dried pigment ink than a
dried dye one. The optimal head voltage
or waveform needed to fire a jet is also
different between the two ink types. The
print head cleaning technique used in
most photo printers is a combination of
firing the head at different rates, wiping
the head with a rubber blade, and literally
sucking on the jets with an internal
pump. This sequence is known as a
maintenance cycle, and the frequency of
the cycle is different between pigment
and dye inks. This is why printer manufacturers
have different models for dye
and pigment printing, or use chips on
the cartridges to tell the machine which
ink type is being used. (Although this
isn’t the only reason chipped cartridges
are used.) Lyson’s tests indicate running
pigment inks in a dye-based printer isn’t
a good idea.
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